Public Transportation in
Sicily
Getting
Around Palermo, Catania, and the Hinterland
Truth
be told, getting around Sicily with trains, boats and buses is
not terribly difficult. Services are not always very efficient
but they do function. It's simple enough to find a ferry departure at Milazzo for the Lipari islands, or from Messina for mainland Italy. But for land transportation, it's the occasional bizarre payment procedures that we want to warn you about. First, a general guide.
Airport Buses
These depart every 30 minutes. Fares to Palermo or Catania (from their respective airports) are about 5 euros. (Taxis are not recommended as you'll probably be grossly overcharged.) In Catania, the buses for the local airport, Taormina, Palermo and other points depart from a station directly across the large square in front of the train station. In Palermo, these
buses depart from Via Balsamo off the station square. In Palermo there's
also a train that serves the route between the Palermo airport
and that city's main train station, departing every 40 minutes or so.
Finding Trains and Buses
In Palermo, Catania and most other large cities you'll find bus
stations near the main railway stations, as we've mentioned above. The blue buses provide service between cities, while the orange ones provide local service.
Bizarre Payment Procedures (Read to avoid problems.)
Look for a ticket vendor (biglietteria) nearby. Shops that sell cigarettes or newspapers often sell bus tickets. For trains,
it is necessary to "cancel" (stamp) your ticket in one of the
small orange ticket machines at the station near the platforms immediately before boarding. Tickets for the blue "long distance" buses may be canceled aboard by the driver before
departure. Tickets for the orange
local buses, available for one euro and normally valid for 90
or 120 minutes (though there are also full-day tickets), must
be canceled immediately upon boarding the bus in one of
the (you guessed it) orange machines near the entrance of the
vehicle.
Penalties (Read this too!)
Here's where it gets tricky. If the the infamous "bus ticket
checkers" catch you riding with a ticket that has not been
validated (date stamped by a machine) you will immediately be
fined about fifty euros. The personnel rarely speak English. (Some
can barely handle standard Italian, preferring to speak Sicilian
among themselves.) They get paid a "bounty" (incentive
commission) of about ten euros for each fine levied, and in
practice it is easy for them to pocket some of the fines (such as those
collected from foreigners) paid in cash.