It was praised by visitors such as Abdullah al-Idrisi and Ibn Al-Gubayr.
Gennàt al-àrd, pronounced Genoard during
the Norman epoch of Sicily and meaning "Paradise
on Earth" in Arabic, was the name of the extensive park that the Norman
kings of Sicily had the Arabs create for them with
palaces, pavilions and fountains behind and beyond the Norman
Palace of Palermo, their capital, extending towards the city's vast
Even before this park existed, the countryside in the Valley of Palermo,
surrounded by a natural amphitheater made up of hills and mountains, was
a miracle of flora and fauna, thanks to its fertile soil and its rivers
and springs. Beginning in the ninth century, long before the Norman conquest,
the Arabs had introduced new irrigational and agricultural techniques in
the valley, and they also planted citrus groves, which thanks to the orange
and yellow fruits would later earn the valley its nickname Conca d'Oro,
meaning the Golden Conche.
The valley was so well irrigated that it was even possible to grow rice.
Though rice has not been cultivated in Sicily for five centuries, but this
culinary tradition survives in arancine, or rice
While the precise extension of the Genoard park is unknown today (the
following map traces its approximate boundary), it embraced a series of
streams and kanats (underground irrigation systems)
linked to the Arab-style palaces built in the valley for both the Arab emirs
and the Norman kings extending to the base of the mountain where Monreale is located. It should
be remembered that Monreale during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries
was little more than a small hamlet built around an abbey.
Though the oldest of these palaces was about two miles east of the Genoard,
it is worth mentioning. The Favara, also known as Maredolce in what
is now the Brancaccio district of Palermo, was built by Ga'far, the last
Emir of Bal'harm, at the end of the tenth century. The name derives from
the two fresh water springs (fawwàra in Arabic) that supplied
water to the area flowing down from the nearby mountains (Mount Grifone)
and the Oreto River. These natural springs allowed the creation of a man-made,
fish-stocked lake large enough for small boats. This castle was also surrounded
by a park. Later Roger II (king from 1130 to 1154)
added a private chapel, dedicated to Saints Philip and James, inside the
palace, this being common for the Norman monarchs even in buildings considered
temporary residences. Onlya few walls of the Favara remain, but it is important
because it was the prototype of palaces constructed later.
King Roger II would sojourn
in the Favara during the Winter and during Lent, while during the summer
time he preferred to stay in another palace he had built in the southeastern
hills of the Conca d'Oro overlooking his hunting grounds amongst what were
then lush forests encompassing the environs of Monreale and Baida, extending
across the Molara district (now in the township of Altofonte) and across
the valley to Altofonte, another hilltop town. Until the twentieth century
Altofonte bore the simple name Parco because it had been a tiny hamlet
in the royal park. Its tiny Norman chapel of
Saint Michael is the oldest structure there.
Both the Cuba and the Zisa castles were erected by William
I "the Bad" (reigned 1154-1166) or his son William
II "the Good" (who was married to Joan
Plantagenet of England).
The Cuba, a square building - "cubic" as its name suggests
- beyond the old city walls near a Punic burial
site (a number of Phoenician and Carthaginian
necropoli dot the area around what is now Corso Calatafimi), was used as
a pavilion during concerts and perhaps even jousts.
It was surrounded by shallow reflecting pools and included a number of smaller,
square, domed buildings similar to the Cubola (pictured above) near
what is now Villa Napoli. It is thought that there were as many as twenty
of these structures around the Genoard.
The Zisa castle was a much more complex building used as a summer
residence by the last Norman Kings and possibly as Joan's
residence immediately prior to her wedding to William II. This castle, built
by Arab architects, had its own air conditioning system, including a fountain
hall (an iwan with a fountain) where you can still admire some mosaics from
the Norman period, at least six separate apartments (two per floor) each
fully equipped with their own latrine and running water, an atrium on the
upper floor for collecting rainwater with a cistern and, next to the building,
a private chapel which still stands, as well as a hammam (a traditional
Arab-style bathhouse and sauna). Though inspired by the gardens of the Genoard,
today's Zisa Gardens seem a bit too modern.
The much smaller Scibene palace is - at least in part - from this
same period, but the oldest part of the building is contemporary to the
Favara and predates the arrival of the Normans in Palermo
by at least a few decades. Although access to this largely-destroyed building
is restricted (it is on private property), it was quite similar to the Zisa,
featuring an iwan-like fountain room.
To paraphrase Ibn Al-Gubayr, these Arab-style palaces were like "jewels
on the neck of the stunning lady" which was the Genoard park. Surrounded
by lakes, artificial streamlets and fountains, they were equipped with complex
cooling systems and internal water ducts. Indeed, they were all built on
the model of the typical Arab àgdal outside a city with a
fountain representing the spring of Paradise set in a small lake surrounded
by gardens. Another contemporary chronicler who made reference to the Genoard and its delights
was Peter of Eboli, a monk.
The Genoard had an incredible variety of flora and fauna. There were
both common and exotic plants, bushes and trees such as palms, plane trees (sycamores), citrus (oranges, mandarins, lemons,
citrons), almond, pistachio, chestnut and walnut trees, wild
olive and fig trees, myrtle
and laurel. There was also papyrus and sugarcane growing along the streams and the two rivers
- the Kemonia and the appropriately-named Papyrus or Papireto.
The scent of jasmine and other blossoms was everywhere.
The fauna in the Genoard "zoo" included exotic birds such as
parrots and peacocks, migratory birds such as herons, flamingos and the
purple swamp hen, but also turtle doves and pigeons.
There were reptiles and Nile crocodiles, and among the mammals present the
more exotic ones such as monkeys and (it is said) giraffes, leopards and
A vast hunting reserve and scattered woodlands lay beyond the Geonoard.
Here were deer, hare, rabbits, pheasants, grouse,
partridge and black francolin as well as a few small
wild cats and hedgehogs.
Foxes, wolves and wild boar also thrived here. The
woods were comprised of ashes, oaks, birches, and some conifers - perhaps even a
few Nebrodi firs.
In Sicily, as in Normandy and England, the Normans loved to go hunting
- usually on horseback. Even falconry was undertaken
on horseback. Frederick II wrote a lengthy treatise
on this avian sport of kings.
The Genoard with its palaces, castles, pavilions, lakes, streams, bathhouses
and the bordering hunting grounds, was truly an earthly paradise for these
Norman and Swabian rulers who had originally arrived
in Sicily from lands in Europe where the way of life was anything but Arabic
of this can still be seen in the upper apartments of the Norman Palace.
"Roger's Chamber" is a fine example of an Arab iwan inserted
in a riyàd, an artificial rendering of a Koranic paradise
within an enclosed and built-up space in a city, and it gives us a vivid
artistic impression - in timeless mosaic - of some of the creatures and
plants in the nearby Genoard.
What little remains are masterful renderings of palm and fruit trees,
exotic and forest animals, archers and hunters - all illustrated in perfect
symmetry with each copied next to the other as if it were its own reflection
on a mirror. There exist descriptions indicating that there was much more
to these chambers in the past. It has been hypothesized that there was a
fountain at the entrance of the room in the middle of the open tower. With
or without the fountain at its entrance, "Roger's Chamber" represented
Paradise as described in the Koran. As mentioned previously, the room was
an iwan and in fact it still has its square-ish shape with an open
side facing towards the atrium (and possibly the fountain) like an iwan
All this was created for the Norman king's delight as if he were an Arab
sultan or an Emir in his palace overlooking the city of Palermo. The entire
structure dates from the rule of Roger II, but some scholars believe that
"Roger's Chamber" was actually decorated during the reign of his
Another part of the Norman Palace seems to allude to the Genoard's delights.
On the ceiling of the Palatine Chapel, various animals are depicted. Were
there camels in the Genoard? Quite posssibly.
Overlooking the Genoard - and visible from it - is Monreale's cathedral
and cloister, whose fountain resembles those which once existed in the park
Despite Palermo's uncontrolled urban sprawl, a few of the Genoard's jewels
About the Author: Jackie Alio is an author and tour guide
based in Sicily. She has previously written about Thomas Becket, Saint Agatha and Margaret of Navarre.