We last described Christmas in Sicily two years ago. Here I'd like to mention a few ideas for where to stay and what to do.

Staying in Sicily this time of year, you have three basic choices: resort, country or city.

Resorts: The island's best known resort is Taormina, set on a mountain overlooking the Ionian coast and easily reached from Catania Airport. It will be cool, but there's rarely snow in Taormina, though distant Etna will probably be capped with the season's first snows. The atmosphere is special, and far less crowded than during most of the year. This means that some hotels and restaurants will be closed, but there are still plenty available. An excursion, or even skiing, on Mount Etna is always an adventure.

Guest Farms: There's nothing like a stay in the country. Italians use the word "agriturismo" to describe guest farms --working farms where you can pass a few days or even a week. You'll have to rent a car to get to most of these places, but it's worth the trip. To find a farm and arrange your stay, our agriturismo page is a good place to begin, or try a web search with the phrase "agriturismo sicilia."

In the City: Staying in a hotel isn't the only urban option. Palermo and Catania have some charming bed and breakfasts, and we especially recommend those in the old historical districts. The ambience in these cities is more "local" when the residents are in the Christmas spirit and there are few tourists. If you plan on staying in a hotel, ask about "low season" rates. The Holidays, of course, are in the middle of the concert and opera season, so find out what Palermo's Teatro Massimo and Catania's Bellini have to offer. Both have websites indicated on our links page.

Planning is important. Last minute arrangements are not always easy. The Holidays are a peak period for flights, so it's best to book at least a few weeks in advance. Remember that on the Holidays themselves many restaurants are closed, and on New Year's Eve the cenone, a huge, multi-course dinner, is traditional. It's best to reserve early for the cenone, which can run to a hundred euros per person. The legal holidays of the season are Christmas Day (25 December), Saint Stephen's Day (26 December), New Year's Day (1 January) and the Epiphany (6 January).

About the Author: Roberto Paglia has written numerous articles for this publication and others relating to social topics.