With the euro (€) currently at an unfavorable exchange rate (especially
compared to the US dollar), people tend to think twice about traveling abroad
and if they do, they plan their expenses wisely. But even after all is said
and done - travel, lodging and food arrangements planned down to the last
penny-pinching detail - there's still no room for splurges like dining out
or visiting top museums, it can be rather demoralizing, and makes you wonder
if an overseas jaunt is more trouble than it's worth. While other tourist
hot spots in Italy such as Venice or Florence literally charge you for the
air you breathe, Sicily is still rather affordable, even Taormina in the
off season (November to mid-March). There's a plethora of sights and places to see and things to
do in Sicily's capital, Palermo,
even on the tightest of budgets. Seems too good to be true? With the following
tips and you can take in most of what this city has to offer on a shoestring.
1. Get used to the idea that transportation will be, for the most
part, your feet: Palermo might have the largest historical
center in Europe (240 hectares) but luckily most noteworthy sites are concentrated
within a relatively small area, meaning that everything you're interested
in can be seen during without too much exhausting cross-city trekking. Besides,
it's the only way to see real city life unfold; to see those unexplored
corners the guidebooks never tell you about. Arm yourself with a city map
that highlights monuments and major churches (download one here on See Palermo)
and venture forth. Be forewarned, however, that street traffic in Palermo
can be hair raising; look every which way when crossing the street.
2. If you must use transportation, however, buses are a cheap option: At
€1.30 for a 90-minute ticket, mass transit in Palermo
win the dubious top spot as the most expensive in Italy - the plus side,
however, is that it's a good, vast network that will get you where you
want to go, including outskirts like Monreale
and Mondello. Luckily for the budget-conscious there are affordable solutions
to get you around town if walking isn't your thing or you are too exhausted to
march on. €3.50 will buy you an all-day ticket, or biglietto giornaliero
(bee-LEE-et-toh jor-nah-LEE-er-roh) that's good for passage from validation
until midnight. Pressed for time and can only see a few monuments in the
center? No worries: The three circular bus lines known as Linea Gialla,
Linea Rossa and Linea Verde run limited routes yet cover most places of
interest. What's more, the fare for these lines is less than half of what
you'd pay for regular service - a 52 cent ticket will get you around
the center of Palermo; even better news, the ticket is valid for all-day
passage. For schedules and routes, go to the official
website.
3. Being on a limited budget could mean forgoing the top sites,
but seeing the more interesting ones: If you are scrimping yet have
your heart set on seeing Palermo's number one attraction, the Norman
Palace/Palatine Chapel, which costs no less than eight euros for admission,
do the math. There goes your entire budget for the day, unless you plan
on fasting. Monuments managed by the Sicilian Regional Endowment of Arts
and Historical Heritage (Beni Culturali) have the heftiest entrance
fees, with no discounts to speak of for Americans (but some for EU citizens).
All is not lost, however: Little-known sites that are hidden jewels and
which are managed by private cultural associations offer an all-inclusive
or reduced price fee to sites on their tour circuits, as well as a guided
tour of the monument. For example, when visiting the church of San Cataldo
or the oratory of Santa Cita, you'll be given an itinerary indicating the
other sites you can see that day.
4. Freebies are yours for the seeking: In a city that
has seen more "colonial" dominations than independent countries
it's no wonder that remnants of its history are to be admired by wandering
around. And sometimes, you just might happen upon a church or palazzo
that very rarely opens its doors to the public. Be on the lookout for
events around town that promote cultural or historical awareness, which
are always free.
5. This is a city where street food is unequivocally
the best food: A priori you'll rule out sit-down meals, but thankfully
Palermo is a city where culinary expression is just as vibrant - and, okay,
a tad questionable at times - as the city, but no matter: with a bit of
open-mindedness for the taste buds you'll savor things you'd have never
thought edible. A good place to start is at one of the open-air
markets (Vucciria, Capo, Ballarò, Borgo Vecchio) where pots and
pans are clanging early in the morning at food stalls that double as open-air
kitchens serving up their concoctions to the multitudes for a few euros.
Even the least adventurous can indulge in the uniqueness of the city's cuisine:
a panelle (chick pea fritter) sandwich or
the ubiquitous arancina (rice ball) will
do the trick at satisfying your appetite.
6. Save money by staying at an economical bed and breakfast instead of a pricey hotel: This may seem quite obvious.
Why spend over ninety euros per night when you can spend just thirty for comfortable accommodations in one
of the city's historic districts close to the things you want to see? Find one on our bed and breakfast
page or with a wider search on the Web. Hopefully, this choice will leave your budget with more than ten euros per day to see Palermo.
About the Author: Conchita Vecchio wrote the most recent (2011) edition of
the Frommer's Guide to Sicily. She
writes a monthly destination guide for EasyJet's in-flight magazine (Traveller),
and edited the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Sicily. Conchita has also been a consultant for The History Channel
and other international media. She occasionally leads personalized tours for small groups (see her profile on the tour guide page).